When driving down Deer Springs Road in Escondido, CA, it’s easy to miss the entrance to the Golden Door. After all, the luxury resort and spa is nestled, almost hidden, at the base of the mountains. And if you’re driving too fast, you likely won’t notice the Japanese-style gate. This was my first lesson during my visit to the idyllic property: slow down!
After a quick trip down from LA, crossing through the gate felt like arriving on another planet. To my left was a sprawling orange grove and Japanese lanterns. To my right, a literal golden door. I was greeted, my car and luggage whisked away by a friendly valet, and then taken through the door to a beautiful lobby. Tea and the spa’s signature ginger cookie were offered, as I sat on plush yellow velvet seating with an intricate Japanese mural on the wall.
The grounds are expansive, over 600 acres, including 20 miles of hiking trails and endless spots to have a quiet moment alone. The paths are winding, leading you to a biodynamic garden that provides most of the property’s food, a serene labyrinth, or, my favorite, the spa. The interiors are thoughtfully designed, bringing a sense of calm alongside a modern, on-trend aesthetic. The Golden Door is usually female-only, except for a few coed weeks or men’s-only weeks throughout the year. There’s no need to pack much — your room is outfitted with workout clothes, toiletries, fluffy robes, and a traditional yukata (Japanese robe) to wear to dinner. There’s laundry service too. It’s no wonder that a few of the other guests I met my first evening had found the Golden Door by Googling “the best spa in the world”.
The Golden Door (or simply The Door, if you ask a regular) was built in 1959. There’s quite a bit of legend that accompanies its history. Past guests include Elizabeth Taylor, Zsa Zsa and Ava Gabor, and Natalie Wood. (More recently, Oprah and Barbra Streisand.) With a smile, the staff told me that it used to be the place where celebrities would come to lose a few pounds for a role or hide out from the bright lights of Hollywood. Today, it’s more about overall wellness. In fact, after settling into my room, I called my husband and told him it really seemed like I was about to be handed everything to be “my best self” on a silver platter. (This was true, but instead of silver, it was a shibori-style ceramic plate.)
Each day, you’re provided with a schedule. Hikes leave at 6AM sharp, meal times are prompt (lunch and dinner are usually eaten family-style), and you’ve only got about 10 minutes between workout classes. At first, this felt too intimidating. But I soon realized that the workout schedule was a mere suggestion. Each staff member — from the yoga instructor who felt more like a therapist to my peppy personal trainer who encouraged me to try TRX — reiterated the fact that everything was completely up to me. From the menu (would you like oatmeal or eggs for breakfast?) to the activity level (sunbathing or water aerobics?) to the rooms (do you prefer to be social or would you like to be secluded in the garden?) is customizable.
I suppose my second lesson was that I needed to find that internal balance, and that I am allowed to do just that. (Ahh, the joy and guilt of self-care.) In fact, nearly every employee you come across will gently remind you: “This time is for you, and you alone.” Or, “You’re allowed get exactly what you need out of your stay here.” Of course, it’s easy to relax when in addition to exercise and proper nutrition, you’re also treated to an in-room massage each afternoon. (There’s a massage bed hidden in the closet!) Not to mention the daily skincare: facials and body scrubs, herbal wraps, and a pedicure before you leave.
As for the mental aspect, there are daily workshops to guide you. You can learn more about the zodiac or acupuncture, or take a meditation or mindfulness workshop. (Annharriet Buck, the famed life coach, helped me see things in a whole new light.)
Perhaps it was the Carlsbad Mineral Water I’d been drinking, or the fresh and nutrient-filled meals, but everything felt clearer. I began to understand what mindfulness, or balance, even felt like. I sat by the pool one afternoon, post-yoga but pre-massage, and I watched a bright red dragonfly circle the pool over and over again. It all seemed so poetic that for one brief moment, the skeptic in me wondered if it was perhaps an electronic, remote-controlled bug that had been placed there for my own amusement. This ability to quiet my mind and be present yet aware in the moment was one of the most important aspects of my stay. (And I thought it would be the massage!)
If it all seems a bit too indulgent, perhaps this will encourage a visit: the Golden Door donates 100% of their net profits to charity. They’ve helped to keep the doors open at Forensic Health Services in Escondido, which helps victims of child abuse and sexual assault. They’ve worked with Whole Planet Foundation®, which raises funds to alleviate poverty in communities around the world. And they’re helping build Global Health Committee’s Zahara Center, which will provide HIV counseling for children and the expertise to address needs of children infected with HIV/AIDS in Ethiopia.
As I packed my suitcase to return to Los Angeles, I realized that their slogan — “it will change you” — proved true. Yes, it sounds hyperbolic, but I realized I’d be taking the experience home with me. Along with a clearer complexion, a (slightly-flatter) stomach, and a new appreciation for salads, I had the mental balance I’d hoped for.
